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Floorplan, Flow and What Would You Want

When you’re doing a complete remodel from the studs in, the first thing we do is have our architect draw flat-line drawings for what “could be.” Then, we make lots of edits from there to come up with a great floorplan that flows fabulously and maximizes every inch of space.

Once we get access to the project (which in this case, it was rented out and took months for us to get inside) we start stripping the unit, uncovering lots of interesting things. Most of the time we find the electrical system was bootlegged, the walls are improperly supported, and water damage. This all equals more money, more money, and more money. Which brings me to an important recommendation. Always build in a contingency into your budget. We typically use 10%, unless we are Extreme Remodeling a home that’s over 50 years old – then we double it.

Next, we lay out the new floorplan using blue tape, allowing us to verify that we’ve got flow throughout the project, and it’s a home that I would want to move in to. That said, we always make changes! I admit, I’m very picky and want a lot in my home. Actually, I want everything! In my opinion, there’s always room for improvement, and here's what I pay special attention to:

  • Entry/Front Door - Does the entry feel open, inviting and flow into the next space?

  • Main Room - Is the main floor (family room, kitchen and dining) open concept and allow for maximum seating?

  • Kitchen - Does the kitchen have enough storage and room for professional appliances?

  • Stairs - If you’re dealing with stairs, we’ve always had to reposition them (from what our architect drew) after we have demoded the project, to gain the most useable space possible.

  • Storage Opportunity - Always use every opportunity to get extra space, like under the stairs

  • Showers vs. Tubs - Pin-point who your buyer is and decide what’s more desirable; showers or tubs. Plus, showers always look better.

  • Closets – Really think these through to maximize space

  • Interior Doors – Use solid core doors, hollow core is cheap. Consider adding glass panels to some of them, depending on your design. Limit the number of doors within a small area when possible by using a barn door and track. Bonus with barn doors is that they’re very popular and add that custom touch

  • Window Styling – Take a close look at your rendering and see if you like the size and the style of the windows that have been drawn. Resist cheaping out on windows and make sure you like the grid design, if applicable.

  • Window and Door Height – Always try to get your doors and windows up as high as you can –6’8” is standard, and I never recommend building “standard.” The higher the better. Your window and door height should be the same, where possible.

One of the big changes that I’m making (as we speak) from our original plan is that I’m moving all of the doors and windows in this project from the standard height of 6’8” to 7”6”, which still leaves us room for soffits and the top plate. It costs more to do but it's well worth it.

After taking some colored sharpies to our renderings that our architect provided (see last week's post), I winced and thought “this looks way to busy with all the grids in the windows and the garage door,” so I changed them too. I also added more trim above the windows to balance out the project.

Based on our demographics and after talking with real estate extraordinaires Anne McBee & Nicole Edgington at Willis Allen in Del Mar, I changed the tub to a shower that’s inside one of the secondary bedrooms.

We’re also re-locating the stairs from what was originally drawn.

Let’s just say that my architect is not very happy with me right now… BUT

Remember one very important thing. Just because your floorplan has been drawn by a professional, that doesn’t mean it’s going to have the best flow, floorplan AND be something that you yourself would want to move in to. Take the time to tape out your new rooms and walls, kitchen, etc. It’s well worth the effort whenever you’re Extreme Remodeling.

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